Taking this back from California

April 20, 2008 by ketantendulkar

Here’s a checklist after my rendezvous with USA. It contains some of the things I was most impressed with here which I would like to see done in India. While it looks like I follow about 50 percent of this list (I am sure some folks do follow some of these things, but here it is as a checklist) When I return to India I will:

  • Stop my car and wait for crossing people to cross, and not honk-n-freeze them.
  • Work, and I mean really work, for an 8-hour day, jump up at 5pm and say “hey, looks like I’m done, see ya folks!” around the cubicle and rush off to ride the latest personal hobby horses. This goes against the pop IT culture where people sit in cubicles and… well, yes, work, but also fwd mails, chat, discuss, shout out cricket scores, play music-n-sing aloud (headphone-deafened, not for benefit of cubicle mates), and generally forget that estimates were all about an 8-hour workday and not about squeezing your 8-hour work around a “whole life experience”.
  • Say “hello” and “good morning” to complete strangers, and not mind all those cold stares, snickers, screw tightening gestures, and arrogant snorts (m) and haughty sniffs (f) (or perhaps the famous Indian sandal punch).
  • Generally “own” your stuff – duties, code, laundry, life – really own it like your baby, stop not-genuine blame games in their tracks.
  • Not keep repeating – in US this really good thing is _Blah Blah_ , and this is how it should be done in India _Blah Blah_. Period.

Personal:

  • Shoot my India in vivid hi-definition.
  • Not say “shit, man” – not that I used to say it, but I somehow might get into this word-fixation for this US slang, based on certain circumstances.
  • No chocolates. No Coke. No Lays.
  • Camp? Hike? Where do I buy a tent, sleeping bag, backpack, hydration pack, gizmos? Isn’t life supposed to be about being simple? Anyway, should I really try these things in the Indian summer J ??
  • Find a “trail”. Jog at 2 pm weaving in and around traffic, be the artful dodger of people, also wear a mask to dodge pollution.

 

Well, I have closed my eyes. I can visualize this revolution sweeping over India.

Now I have opened my eyes again.

 

Can you look up two words in the dictionary, dear reader – one is mediocrity. The other is perseverance. Did you get them both? Go hit your head against a wall and enjoy it. I think I am going to enjoy this while my will is headstrong in India. Every moment of it. Oh yeah.

 

An American Evening – Hues Slip Away into a dark night…

April 4, 2008 by ketantendulkar

A predatory evening in which tangled thoughts seem to break out into a blog entry. These thoughts are now words, now have a form. Ink on paper. Pixels on a screen. Eternity has a blog entry. Welcome to California.

You are at a tangled wooded place and light is visible in patches. Sense is what you make of it. Feelings are unexpressed, the heart breaks into rapturous song, the mind does not care whether you are in California or Loveland or Tirchurapally. Hallowed be thy name. In the pink of health, blue of your mind, chilled in your heart and bleak in your outlook, you stand in America, the center of America, consumerism ravishing you, smiling all the time to complete strangers, never making headway into talk with anyone, all superfluous things that stay superfluous, mostly a magic light that never diminishes, all the time seeing falling petals that wither away and yet get replaced by morning blooms so fresh that you could faint with their suggestive scents. Frolicking like a baby and dishing out advice like an old man, contradictions seem to be the norm this evening.

Thoughts turn around and greet you like long lost friends.

Like, what happens when you spot your love rushing in thru the front door and, instead of making a headway for your  arms, passes right by and out again thru the right door? Not an ideal situation to be in, is it? The mind turns persons into vapor.

As I watch this evening I read Great Expectations, I think, for the fiftieth time since my first reading of the abridged copy in childhood. In California, the sentences take on different meanings. Yet again I am amazed. In this book life’s literary merits are little things, not great plots. Scenes and not ideas. Just as photography seems to dwarf giant things of life, vainly trying to capture the great and the beautiful, into one flashy moment to form a rectangle that was the moment. Speak of trying to capture the moon. My thoughts themselves speak to me of no particular purpose but thank me for staying like I am and always was.

And even Great Expectations falls short of expectations when real life slips you a secret parcel. Estella, the uncrowned heroine of Great Expectations, stands for all unfulfilled desires that haunt humanity, the most painful of which is the extreme yearning of a man for an unreachable woman. The success of the whole endeavour of love which is unfullfillable, doomed from the start, is a plodding exercise in sainthood of unmanageable proportions. All this time you think of the present and the mind refuses to slip back into the tizzy of a plot, and instead slides into a little reverie, disregarding literature even.

You see the golden sunset and marvel at the things that nature gives away without international boundaries.

The whole life seems a sonorous ride.

Everything makes a short song of joy, and while spring seems positively lacking in the air, and the magic of winter seems gone in this understated atmosphere, and the rarified air that you were breathing seems pallid and sunny without purpose, the lack of magic seems natural in this happy atmosphere. Like a stretched out Disneyland filled with shiny happy people, and the atmosphere seems to exist because of the people.

All the time its the rush hour and California seems busy mining gold and not noticing the golden hues of this sunset; and since not finding gold is more of a norm, it is bent on making some of it. Alchemy was a considered a science based on unfounded wisdom which succeeded because it promised the infinite. While gold makers still abound, methods of search have narrowed to more aspiring avenues, and in California the Americans found sure ways to minting money. But I hope the freshness stays. Yet, gold makers themselves turn into base metals, however. Lose a lot of things trying to make a lot of them.

For example, my hair.

A once permanent black now with traces of milky white. Which one is the true color? Age defines the characteristics of many things, not just your hair color. The pink eyed goggles of childhood, the fiery red sunsets you see in your youth, followed by orange hues, blues skies for smooth sailers, and also the occasional cloudy landfills where all desires seem fluff and unreal and unobtainable but in totality all of them mark the rhythm without which you would have done no better or worse than if you had hollow sockets instead of eyes. Real evenings have soft eyes. A kitten stares at you from under the mad orchestra being played all over the world. Its gaze is riveting, but its just a sunset with soft downy eyes.

But I digress about the scheme of things.

Caifornication is essentially an irreversible process, seemingly good, seemingly glorious, pagan, unearthly, ungodly even, but most of all it is yearning for and reaching an end, whatever you define it as. The west ends in California. The west aspires to be California. The sun sets here. At the last stretch of Sunset Strip, LA or Lands End, San Francisco, the country which starts with the torch-bearing  statue of Liberty makes its end, a final statement, a glorious 24×7 celebration, a feeling that you have arrived. Beyond this there is nothing to achieve, and the sea stretches out for miles till the land of the rising sun.

The whole of America seems to miss certain important points, especially as the hues of this evening slip away into a darkness of moving lights racing across the freeways. The words of Thoreau are irreplaceable and hence keep on appearing at the ends of all things, such as this blog entry, and still seem contemporary wisdom:

 “I do not say that John or Jonathan, that this generation or the next, will realize all this; but such is the character of that morrow which mere lapse of time can never make to dawn. The light which puts out our eyes is darkness to us. Only that day dawns to which we are awake. There is more day to dawn. The sun is but a morning star.”

(Last paragraph taken from the last paragraph of Walden)

San Francisco – A crooked city… and lot of other twists in this entry

February 4, 2008 by ketantendulkar

San Francisco is a photographer’s heaven. And a walker’s hell. Uphill and downhill. The world is either a panting climb or a roller coaster type outta-control kind of slippery descent. In fact the crookedest street in the world is in San Francisco. I am told that there are other more steep and crooked streets in San Francisco, but the most famous on is the Lombard street. With eight switchbacks from which you descend on a gradient of more than 40 degrees it is not the road most easy to drive on.

Here are people “enjoying” themselves:

From the top initially it seems as if you are at the edge of a sheer fall with no road :-)

And at the top you can catch the cable car which seems to be coming here right from the Pacific out of the Alcatraz prison in the background!

Did I say that San Francisco is a photographer’s paradise? I take back my words.

Here is the crookedest photo in the world:

This was taken by me standing on a slope and trying to get a “straight” shot, and obviously my point of reference has gone wrong… so moral: take straight photos on crooked streets by aligning your camera to the buildings, not the road :-) .

But San Francisco is special – the colors, people, neighbourhoods make you go click click once in about every four seconds…

Here is someone taking my photo as I take his photo :-)

And here we are catching a tram, another tourist trap:

Here is a self photo sitting in the tram:

The driver of the tram:

The traffic on the inclined streets:

The buildings on the inclined sidewalks:

People walking up the inclines:

(I would be inclined to take the tram!)

A sushi restaurant on the decline :-)

The cafe of the cable car company: (on a positive gradient)

The cafe of the cable car company: (on a negative gradient)

The cable car looking like the familiar Mumbai local (less crowd today as the superbowl match series is on):

Finally we come to some straight roads:

Where people use skates to slide on the sidewalk (say that fast ten times):

Nariman Point style buildings (they always copy our rich heritage, makes me wild)

Cuties on the sidewalk:

Toughies on the road: (toughie gone for a snack so here I go click empty bike…)

And more colors of colorful San Francisco:

And me refuelling at the Piraat Pizza Place with WHOLE CHICKEN, Obelix style (not boar but whole):

And then out again clicking:

Window shopping:

Here’s another of those thingummies coming again:

Outta my way… I ain’t no looking at such cheap cars….. my Chevy Spark is a class of its own…. no way I’m siting in you clap-trapp:

A hotel with an attitude:

Around Powell Street:

A Mac Store:

And finally coming back to Pleasanton via the BART train:

Not watching skiing (!!) at Squaw Valley Olympic Village

February 4, 2008 by ketantendulkar

Squaw Valley. A skiiers heaven. A white paradise with the name of the Olympics stamped on it permanently. People go here to ski to their heart’s content. We had gone to Alpine Meadows nearby to watch the skiers to our heart’s content. :-) But surprisingly here we did not even do that… :-)

Read on for what we did….

As usual, these places are full of tourist traps (as was Alpine Meadows with overpriced food and drinks). Here we are in the Olympic Village, successfully not falling into any of the traps disguised like shops:

In fact we enjoyed ourselves more by not shopping :-) not unlike this dog here running around in the snow:

That was when we noticed it.

Look hard at the center of this picture:

It was a cable car! We yelled “Yahoo!” in the snow. Full Shammi Kapoor Junglee style…

What does it look like from up there, we wondered. We found out after laying down twenty bucks each:

Here we are after a nice ride, quite at the top of the world.

We found out three things – 1. there are restaurants at the top of the world. 2. these restaurants are grossly overpriced, 3. we might as well fall into tourist traps disguised as restaurants, being tourists anyway, and having something to eat makes you feel at the top of the world.

When we left, the weather was on its way to becoming chilly and hence we felt kinda nice after that: (well, we experienced a real snow fall, so it felt nice!)

Back at Alpine Meadows with Martin:

The next day we were back in the Toyota Highlander with Martin demonstrating his snow driving skills as he steered through what seemed to be turning into a “roadless” landscape without batting an eyelid:

Now you see the road…

Now you don’t….

Finally we were glad to be inside the munch hall of Alpine Meadows and Martin seemed glad to be out in that snowstorm skiing. Here we are inside, cozy and curled up by the fireplace:

While the weather outside was…

Not exactly cozy, eh?

But all enjoyable trips have to come to an end, and night quickly appeared, and with it the moon reigned in the skies:

We left Alpine Meadows, and this parting shot brings to an end this entry, and with it comes a tinge of sadness as comes at the end which is really a reminder of the memorable times we had there as we trickled back with slow traffic into warmer regions…

Watching Skiing (and not skiing!!) at Alpine Meadows

February 4, 2008 by ketantendulkar

Another morning.

The landscape of Lake Tahoe automatically dragged our feet to its freezing sides, made us remove our gloves, then camera lens caps, and click click click…. before we realized it we were FROZEN.. quick, gloves on.

Here are the results:

After having gazed at Lake Tahoe to our (frozen) hearts desires we started our journey to Alpine Meadows by TART. That is the Tahoe Area Rapid Transit system, a bus service with heated buses and comfortable rides across the snow filled landscapes. (Sir, may I open the windows, er, I want to take some photos of the veeery veeery nice scenery…. pleeease can you open the emergency windows for me…. cold black looks from other freezing passengers… I had done this last time in Manali and hadn’t learnt not to ask…).

So, my camera lens saw great things through a warm sealed window instead of a chilly open one, and as we were bound for Alpine Meadows a snowy landscape was unfurling meadows, rives, mountains, valleys, skiiers and dogs pulling sleighs all around.

Here are some of the sights:

Here is the SQUAW VALLEY OLYMPIC VILLAGE which we were going to tomorrow:

The journey to Alpine meadows was a first because… well, because India is a tropical country. My Manali trip was when I had experienced snow for a total period of approximately three hours of my life.

Finally we reached the Alpine Meadows Resort and located the munch room (since we were not skiing we had not much to do there!!), which was a big hall full of other munchers-taking-a-break-from-skiing:

Here was the age where skiing starts for people here:

As a side note the age of beginning each activity seems to be decreasing. Here is a little girl immersed in becoming “mobile”:

The real activity was of course skiing – the atmosphere was vibrant and full of life:

People waiting for the ski lift to take them up:

Post skiing the same scenic route: (really amazing, isn’t it, how routes appear the same even when going the other way :-) )

A white morning at Kings Beach, Lake Tahoe

February 3, 2008 by ketantendulkar

Snow in California?

When Martin said it, it seemed a joke at first… a sneaking suspicion that I was being made a fool of (again), but there was no twinkle in his eyes. In fact there was a radiant shine of expectation of three whole days of unlimited skiing. It was a three day weekend and Martin was going to Lake Tahoe to ski to his heart’s delight… I googled for “Lake Tahoe” and some of that shine radiated down into my eyes… a concept became a goal, and the words leapt to my lips.

“Let’s go too”, I said to Parag. Who looked up. And smiled. And said – “us?”, “skiing?” and as further question marks appeared on his face some of that shine wore off my eyes and I ran around to Martin, took his hotel’s number, called them up and finally realized that this wasn’t going to be easy.

The whole of America seemed to have booked out Lake Tahoe. Sorry, no rooms. Sold out.

Here were two honest men willing to lay down hard earned dollars (who earned in rupees and who were actually willing to shell out in Geroge Washington’s “bills”) and America was not willing to accomodate them.

So we took this drastic decision. We were able to book for the first day at TAHOE INN and the third day at FERRARI’S CROWN RESORT but the third day would be a gamble, a bet at the worst season of the year, a possibility of spending the night seeing the open stars lying on a snowy;eitherdown-melty;soft-downy but COLD bed. Good night. Not sweet dreams.

So left it to the stars and started out.

Martin had gone ahead and replaced his car with a Toyota Highlander (four wheeled drive, snow tyres) and thus it came around that we had a nice dinner at a Thai restaurant in Pleasanton and set out for King’s Beach, Lake Tahoe – one of the great lakes of America.

Tuck’s up! Read on all about the gala time we had…

The journey was great, with the two of us dozing off and dangling from our seat belts as Martin throttled the SUV across the state on various freeways, across mountains, cutting reverse across the gold trail till we reached the border of California. In between Lake Tahoe is the border of California and Nevada – the lake is thus shared between the two states and south Tahoe falls into Nevada, where gambling is legal and casinos run through the night glittering like a mini Las Vegas, while North Tahoe in California is more suited for a family vacation and especially for its SKI RESORTS. The North side’s Kings Beach is a beach complete with waves and surf (on a LAKE!) and is on the border of California and Nevada, and thus we found ourselves resting in TAHOE INN.

The freezing night became a white morning, and here are some icicles catching the first morning sunshine outside our window:

Tummy tucking to be done, we went hunting for a breakfast. We finally found a really nice breakfast in a CASINO (!!) which we encoutered by walking just a few steps into Nevada.

Here is the Casino and the breakfast:

The breakfast was good but the zombizilicious had not yet begun. (Well, don’t reach out for your dictionary yet; I made that one up.)

So what made time stop that morning really was the beautiful gaze we had of Lake Tahoe from Kings Beach:

Waves on a lake, and FREEZING cold, god knows how I got my hands out of my gloves, clicked these photos and put them on again:

And thus after taking many more photos, and almost freezing our hands to our cameras we left for Tahoe City to find a sheltering roof for the for the night.

 We were in for disappointment after disappointment….

 Of course, in the middle of the hunt for a roof, we also encountered a rummage sale and picked up some stuff. :-)

But we didnt find any hotels – Tahoe city too was bursting with people and no rooms were available.

Back to Kings Beach. Further hunting. We ate a Mexican Meal at a BIG place which seemed managed single-handedly by ONE man, who would rush in, arrange plates like a whirlwind, take orders, (make orders? hopefully he wasn’t doubling up as a cook in the kitchen), rush through all tables to make sure he hadn’t missed anyone and was in general more on his toes than his feet.

  

We then tried hotels serially by using a breadth-first-search but inspite of walking hard on Dijkstra’s path we couldn’t find a single empty node, er, hotel with an empty room.

A Huge traversal later we came to this place run by a Gujarati. He has ONE – just ONE room and we jumped onto it – just as we took the keys he had another phone call – “sorry, just sold out” he said. We smiled. We knew those words very well. Rule of thumb – never go to Tahoe in the winter, especially on long winter weekends, without a reservation.

Swimming on a rainy afternoon

February 3, 2008 by ketantendulkar

On this rainy day we saw that the idea of visiting San Francisco would be a washout.

It seemed as if it was going to be a long boring afternoon…

The Mittal family arrived out of the blue as a godsend.

As the rain sloshed around my ankles, getting out from the warmth of the car and into the swimming pool did not exactly seem like heaven. But The Plunge, as the indoor pool of the Hayward town council is called, had reassuring wafts of steam coming out from the water

So I took the plunge.

Here we are – me, Parag, and Ajay Mittal, after the crowd had cleared:

An Afternoon in San Francisco Downtown

January 27, 2008 by ketantendulkar

This was one rocking afternoon.

The BART train took me right into the heart of downtown San Francisco. I came up from the subway into the gliterazzi of the Embercado Center.

Walking a few steps brought me to a lot of musicians on thesidewalk at corners playing for money… with upturned hats to a tin can with the US flags for it…. all accepting coins and bills* (notes at end)

Here’s my first sight of downtown (a tram, a tram!):

(extra large photos in this post to honor this historic town)

Here I am clutching the only movable historic landmark of San Francisco:

A bit ahead,and what do I find – a sort of a fashion street right ahead of me – a mele of stalls of Chinese garment sellers with unmarked goods where folks were haggling….

And as if to complete the analogy here was Rajabhai Tower freshly whitewashed to make it look more American than British :)

And to the left was… THE GOLDEN GATE* !!!

Golden Gate?

That was what I had assumed at first – but this bridge wasn’t red, it was silver but what the hell, it would have sold as a picture postcard of Golden Gate.

So then I discovered (later) that this was the younger brother (i.e. built later) of the Golden Gate bridge and it actually is called the Bay Bridge.

Here is a glimpse of the area I was in:

The Embarcadero is the name given to this road that runs around hugging the coastline like Marine Drive (Mumbai downtown analogy continues) and like Ballard Pier it has the numbered piers of which Pier 39 is the most famous, most touristy and seems to hold the postion of most visited destination after Disneyland!!

Here are some “chai stalls” below Rajabhai Tower…

Ok, ok, the analogy stops right here, promise! Those were restaurants not chai stalls. I admit it.

Here is the farmers weekly market underneath the tower, whatever-it-is-called:

They sell organic produce, and lots of curio items, like these eatable “animal shapes” here:

The walk to Pier 39 was quite a few miles, and hence I started contemplating modes of transportation. Here is the first thing that came along:

Unfortunately it was not to my liking and hence I summarily rejected it without asking the exact fare (which, by the looks of the vehicle might have been quite “reasonable”) so I proceeded and found other modes of transport more suited to my liking:

However here is what would have been my preferred way to travel in San Francisco:

But here is what San Francisco prefers (other than cars, and parking in San Francisco downtown is extremely costly) – the municipal tram service called here as MUNI :-)

And here is what the tourists prefer – a 3 1/2 hours 49-mile drive around the city for around 50 dollars :

Finally after a pleasant trek, I reached Pier39:

The aquarium was inviting, would look at it later:

Outside Pier 39 I saw this talented musician who was also selling CDs:

Here is the Pier 39 “though my eyes”:

Here is a big girl and a little girl having fun:

And a tantalizing view of the boats docked in San Francisco bay however these don’t look like they can take on the Pacific Ocean:

More Pier 39:

Here is a place from where Alcatraz prison is viewed:

And here is the prison itself from where its inmates probably would have viewed the San Francisco bay and freedom with eyes hungry from freedom:

All in all, the financial district is a sort of a Nariman-point-esque experience except that people are extremely well dressed, in three piece suits, hats and the like …

I conclude here with the photos of the Embarcadero Centre:

* – (notes in India, bills here; bills in India, tabs here; receipts in India checks here… and so on. The US of A prides itself by standing on its own feet by standing on its head. Got it? Good. If not, its totally off topic, and I’m ending these parantheses quick at the next dot.)

Back in the Bay Area and Up the Mountains Again…

January 27, 2008 by ketantendulkar

My stomach had almost given up on me when we entered some straight roads again.

Self-portrait of the distressed me:

In and around a residential area:

It was getting later and later for Martin, but the hills were beckoning:

And so slowly up the hills we went…. back to the sweet-scented pine-smelling wondrous mountain air:

Winding again….

In the deep dark woods:

Till we came to this mirror of the earth called a Lake:

But enough said! We need to bid adieu sometimes, and so started on the freeway drive back to the airport:

And thus adieu we bid, here’s Martin on the train to the International Terminal:

I though I would have to take a taxi to go to downtown, but BART, the Bay Area Rapid Transit monorail system came handt. Just for the sake of it, here is a US taxi:

These are expensive in California. The BART is cheaper, so here I am on my way to Embercado, San Francisco Downtown:

Read all about it in the next post…!

A Drive through California’s Countryside

January 27, 2008 by ketantendulkar

This entry is a result of two things: The first one is that Martin likes to drive (he has an incredible repertoire of driving through various terrains weather conditions) and the second being that I like to take photographs.

Both of us went for a drive. Hence this entry.

Martin’s return to Germany was to be culminated by a planned longer than possible drive – instead of taking the usual route via the boring freeway, he decided to take a scenic route passing through the varied scenery that neighbourhood countryside had to offer. In spite of a storm warning; inspite of a storm that had lashed and gone earlier; inspite of the fact that he had to complete this drive in three hours or less, and had a flight to catch – an international one at that.

So we took off from Pleasanton at 7:30am.

Here is the sunrise, still fresh from the amount of wet paint its creator used:

The countryside started soon enough:

An artificial lake as we start ascending the Calaveras mountains:

As usual our car is on display, so that liberal comments of admiration can come easy to you:

The long and winding road…. with Martin’s artistry on the steering my stomach danced to a dizzy tune….

And thus we entered San Jose; here it is, yawning upon us in the valley below on this foggy windy morning:

All the while the road continued to dip and bend and twist and turn:

And to sample the scenic beauty we got out of the car and were literally swept off from our feet… no not by the scenery but by the WIND! It was so windy that opening the car door was a herculean task.

Here are some photos of us while clutching on to dear life and worldly possessions:

Back in the car:

And the bends keep coming:

And in the whole of the dear world it is here that cyclists prefer to take the beaten path:

(And maybe a free beating from the wind?)

Here are some cows whose right legs are shorter than their left legs:

(This probably erroneous conclusion was drawn based on the fact that they are comfortably standing upright on a steep mountain facing to the left).

Probably this horse thought so too, cause he looked at us incredulously:

Read te next post about how we entered civilization again and became civilized beings: